The
Municipal territory of Poppi in the Valdarno Casentinese,
extends for 97,03 square kilometres from the ridge of
the Tosco-Romagnolo Apennines to the valley bottom crossed
by the Arno, between plains, hills and mountains. The
centre is situated on a terraced hillock from which it
dominates the Campaldino plain and the high valley of
the Arno. Feudal to the Counts Guidi of Battifolle, it
then became a Vicariate Seat.
The first historical record of Poppi goes back to 1169,
when it was cited in a document belonging to the Abbey
of San Fedele di Strumi, but the most significant act
was in 1191 :in a certificate by Emperor Arrigo VI with
which many Castles between Romagna and Toscana became
confirmed as a feudal to Count Guido Guerra dei Guidi,
among which were Poppi, Battifolle, Porciano ;from then
on for nearly three centuries, the history of Poppi is closely connected with that of its Lords, who were,
for a long time, among the most powerful of the Tuscan
feudal nobles, often protagonists in the principal events
of the Fiorentini politics of the XII and XIII centuries.
In 1261 Count Simone surrounded the township with walls
and began the construction of the palace, which was
finished towards the end of the century by his son Guido.
Followers of the Ghibellina faction, the Guidi di Poppi were forced, after the death of Manfredi (1266), to
make an act of submission to the Guelfi who were dominant
in Firenze. On 11th June 1289, close to the walls of
the Castle in the plain of Campaldino, the historic
battle was fought between Firenze and Arezzo, which
sanctioned the predominance of Firenze and the Guelfo
formation in Toscana, even if for the moment without
any concrete acquisition of territory. The next year
the Fiorentini, returning from an unfruitful expedition
against Arezzo, devastated the Casentino, setting on
fire the Castle of Poppi, out of hatred for the Count
Guido Novello who had been Vicariate General to King
Manfredi in Firenze. Finally in 1440, during an assault
by the Milanesi military commanded by Niccolò
Piccinino, Count Francesco dei Guidi who had favoured
the enemies of Firenze after the Fiorentini victory
at Anghiari, was besieged in his Castle and forced to
surrender. Passing into the possession of the Fiorentina
republic, Poppi became Vicariate Seat with jurisdiction
covering the whole of the Casentino. Among its illustrious
sons must be remembered the sculpture Mino, called da
Fiesole (1430-1484), the artist Francesco Morandini,
called il Poppi (1544-1597) and the free thinker and
poet Tommaso Crudeli (1703-1745). In the community territory
there are the ruins of the Abbey of Strumi (X century)
primarily Benedettina then Vallombrosana, and the Hermitage
of Camaldoli, constructed at the beginning of the XI
century by San Romualdo near the Apennine ridge surrounded
by thick Fir and Beech woods. In April of 1944 during
the German occupation more than 150 inhabitants of Poppi were deported and many of them died in the concentration
camps.
Poppi
Castle
The castle of Poppi is the most important medieval monument
of the whole Casentino area. Unlike all the other castles
and architectures of the zone it wasn't wasted by the
time or ruined by the men, having always been used as
residence of the local political or administrative power,
in fact it is still today seat of the Commune of Poppi.
Since its origins the history of the castle was strongly
tied to that of the biggest feudal family of the Casentino that made of Poppi the center of their great fief and
lived in this castle for almost four hundred years: the
counts of the Guidi family.
Despite to the fact that the first written notices of
the existence of the castle are dated 1191, its architecture
lets us suppose that the foundation was antecedent of
two or three centuries, back to the period between the
invasions of Italy of the Longbeards and the French .
The original nucleus of the castle is constituted by the
high square tower that still dominates the rest of the
construction and the underlying valley. The today's aspect
is not the original one, in fact in the last century the
tower was partially reconstructed, principally during
the restoration following the damages suffered when it
was hit by a great lightning. The tower was higher and
gifted of machicoulis (projection from the wall made of
stone which has openings through which the defenders can
fire upon an enemy directly below), the legend says it
was taken for model by the Master Mason Arnolfo di Cambio
for the construction of the one of 'Palazzo Vecchio' in
Florence, that is still today intact. About three or four
meters of the base are currently buried, this cover the
scarped wall of the tower. The openings in the masonry
seem to be original. After the tower was built a walled
enclosure all around it, from which were then developed
the other buildings of the fortification.
The
complex was endowed with only two gates, the main, with
a steep ramp of access, on the side towards the valley
and the suburb of Ponte a Poppi (Poppi's ancient market
place on the river Arno) and the other on the opposite
side toward the square of the town. After the last big
restructuring of the castle, in 1470, this last became
the principal access with the name of 'Lion gate'.
The 'Munizione tower' seen by the ditch.
The castle was widened with the construction of a rectangular
block placed on the right of the tower (looking from the
town square). This was the primitive keep, used respectively
from the low to the highest floors to: jail, deposit and
residence. Today it is united at the tower by a curtain
wall, but originally the two constructions were detached,
connected only by a drawbridge at the highest floor, to
be independent and eventually each at defense of the other
in case of attack. In the hall of the residential level
of the keep was signed in 1440 the act of surrender of
the last of the counts Guidi, Francesco, to the Florentine
Republic.
Almost contemporarily was begun the construction of the
other wing of the castle at the opposite side of the tower.
This was built only up to the first floor when the keep
was finished, but that was enough for the creation of
the inside courtyard that we can still admire today, rich
of coats of arms in stone of the Florentine families that
developed the Vicariate at the castle.
On the side toward
Ponte a Poppi the courtyard is closed by the Chapel. Great
part of these works are assigned to the count Simone Guidi,
responsible of the great first reconstruction, initiated
in 1274, that raised the original small fortress to the
rank of feudal residence. To increase the elegance of
the castle he opened also some mullioned windows on its
facade.
Another big intervention had been brought ahead since
1470. This interested principally the inside courtyard
with the construction of the splendid staircase in stone
for the access at the plans of the building. Was excavated
the ditch of separation between the castle and the square
of the town and on the outer walls was erected the 'Munizione
Tower' at defense of the 'Lion gate'. The 'Munizione'
was endowed with a drawbridge, today disappeared. The
castle was by now a splendid residential building. The
works of the last century, with the remaking of big part
of the battlements and the restoration of the mullioned
windows and other parts of the masonry, has given it the
splendid today's aspect .