San
Gimignano rises on a hill (334m high) dominating the Elsa
Valley with its towers. Once the seat of a small Etruscan
village of the Hellenistic period (200-300 BC) it began
its life as a town in the 10th century taking its name
from the Holy Bishop of Modena, St. Gimignano, who is
said to have saved the village from the barbarian hordes.
The town increased in wealth and developed greatly during
the Middle Ages thanks to the "Via Francigena"
the trading and pilgrim's route that crossed it. Such
prosperity lead to the flourishing of works of art to
adorn the churches and monasteries. In 1199 it became
a free municipality and fought against the Bishops of
Volterra and the surrounding municipalities. Due to internal
power struggles it eventually divided into two factions
one headed by the Ardinghelli family (Guelphs) and the
other by the Salvucci family (Ghibellines). On the 8th
May 1300 Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano as the
Ambassador of the Guelph League in Tuscany. In 1348 San
Gimignano's population was drastically reduced by the
Black Death Plague throwing the city into a serious crisis
which eventually led to its submission to Florence in
1353. In the following centuries San Gimignano overcame
its decline and isolation when its beauty and cultural
importance together with its agricultural heritage were
rediscovered. The construction of the towers dates back
to the 11th and 13th centuries. The architecture of the
city was influenced by Pisa, Siena and Florence. There
are 14th century paintings of the Sienese School to be
seen and 15th century paintings of the Florentine School.
Artistic
Itineraries in San Gimignano:
The Dome
The
Duomo or Collegiate Church situated on the west side of
the Duomo square is a remarkable monument of Romanesque
architecture in Tuscany. The Duomo is considered to be
both a Temple of Faith and of Art and indeed, some works
of art still in the church, or from there moved to the
Town Museums, were financed and created thanks to donations
or offerings. In the archives there are wills bearing
testimony to this devotion that were made by both illustrious
and simple persons. Altars, chapels, freizes, frescoes,
paintings commissioned from the most famous artists by
the persons responsible for the Opera del Duomo, by public
administrators and private citizens, all have contributed
to make this church more beautiful and rich in works of
art. Originally the present church was a simple parish
church that in 1056 was transformed into a Propositura
(the name given to a parish church responsible for other
small parish churches in the surrounding area) by Pope
Vittore II. In 1148 the Duomo was consecrated by Pope
Eugenio III returning to Rome along the Via Francigena.
In 1182 a papal "Bolla" (papal document) issued
by Pope Lucio III granted it numerous privileges. In 1220
Pope Onorio III confirmed the Canonical Chapter’s
privileges, as Pope Innocenzo IV did in 1241.
This extraordinary attention given to the church by important
religious dignitaries led the Proposto ( the person responsible
for the Propositura), Canons, and the Municipality to
make the church a more magnificient place of worship worthy
of its excellent reputation. It became a Basilica in 1932.
In 1238 works to enlarge and embellish the church began
that continued until the end of the 17th century with
many famous artists taking part. The Saints of San Gimingnano
such as St. Fina, St. Bartolo, St. Piero, The Martyr and
the Blessed Ciardo, were worshipped and celebrated in
the church. Gimignano, the Saint and Bishop of Modena
has his remains and his altar here. Every year on 31st
January (St. Gimignano Day) he is the object of special
celebration. Canons, Franciscan, Capuchin, Dominican and
Augustinian friars preached from the pulpit of the church
as did Girolamo Savonarola in 1483. Several Cardinals
were given the title of Proposto (the person responsible
for the Propositura) of the church, as in 1146 Giordano
Orsini, Napoleone Orsini in 1314, Francesco Carbone in
1389, Francesco Soderini in 1495 and Baldassarre Cossa
who was elected Antipope in 1410 and removed in 1414 by
the Council of Costanza.
Inside the Duomowe find many very beautiful frescoes:
along the walls in the left aisle, Bartolo di Fredi painted
"Scenes from the Old Testament" and in the right
aisle we find frescoes representing "Scenes from
the New Testament" originally considered to be the
work of Barna da Siena and recently attributed to "La
Bottega dei Memmi".
Entering the central nave we find two famous wooden statues
by Jacopo della Quercia standing on both sides of the
fresco illustrating the "Martyrdom of St. Sebastiano"
by Benozzo Gozzoli.
On the upper part of the central nave between the two
doors, above the first two arches on the right and left
hand sides are Taddeo di Bartolo’s frescoes showing
"the Last Judgement".
In the right aisle, next to the transept, we find the
famous Chapel of St. Fina built in 1468. It is the most
precious work of art in the Duomo thanks to its elegant
altar by Benedetto da Maiano and to its frescoes by Domenico
Ghirlandaio representing on the right hand side "St.
Gregorio foretelling St. Fina of her approaching death"
and on the left hand side "Her Funeral Rites".
The People's Palace:
The
People’s Palace or new Podesta’s Palace, which
is today the home of the Town Council is situated on the
left hand side of the Duomo square. It is one of the most
important monuments of San Gimignano, being both the home
of the Civic Museum and rich in paintings by the Florentine
and Sienese schools (dating from the 13th century) such
as the Crucifix, painted by Coppo di Marcovaldo, the triptyches
by Niccolò Tegliacci and Taddeo di Bartolo dating
from the 14th century, and other important works of art
dating from the 15th century painted by Domenico Michelino,
Pinturicchio and Filippino Lippi. In the different rooms
of the Palace you can find various frescoes on the walls
such as the "Scenes of private life" painted
by Memmo di Filippuccio and "The Maestà"
painted by Lippo Memmi. On the right hand side of the
Palace rises the high "Great Tower" erected
in 1300. On the balcony above the entrance the Podestas
(persons responsible for the Municipality) took their
oaths. In front of the Palace and the Tower, a ballatoio
(stairs leading to and from a narrow terrace) called l’Arengo
can be admired.
Church of St. Agostino
It
can be reached from the Porta St. Matteo by passing along
via Cellolese. Its very simple façade still retains
the characteristics of its original architectural style.
The door in the main façade is not used as the
entrance, instead in order to enter the Church the door
on the right hand side is generally used. The interior
of the Church consists of a single great nave with three
ogival apses.
The roof is supported by a wooden framework. The construction
of the Church of St. Agostino, with a single nave in Romanesque
style with Gothic elements, began in 1280 and terminated
on 31st March 1298 when it was consecrated by Cardinal
Matteo D’Acquasparta. We owe to the Prior Fra Domenico
Strambi, the building of the Cloister in the second half
of the 15th century and the decoration of the Church in
Renaissance style. Extremely interesting to see is the
Chapel of the Blessed Bartolo, whose mortal remains are
kept in a marble monument sculpted by Benedetto da Maiano
in 1495. In 1500 Sebastiano Mainardi frescoed the Chapel’s
walls and vaults. Its terracotta floor is the work of
Andrea della Robbia. Above the High Altar dominates "The
Coronation of the Madonna and the Saints" painted
in 1483 by Piero del Pollaiolo. The frescoes in the Chancel
representing "Episodes from the life of St. Agostino"
were painted by Benozzo Gozzoli between 1464 and 1465
with the help of two of his pupils Pier Francesco Fiorentino
and Giusto d’Andrea who also painted the votive
fresco of St. Sebastiano.
Other notable works of art in this church are the fragments
remaining from a fresco by Bartolo di Fredi and a fresco
showing "The Madonna" painted by Lippo Memmi
in 1317 as well as the tablet representing "The Madonna
and the Saints" painted by Fra Bartolomeo in 1530
and, in the sacristy, a wooden Crucifix dating from the
15th century.
Museum
of Sacred Art
The Museum was created in 1915 and it remained in the
sacristy of the Parish until 1929 when it was moved to
its present site. It has recently been reorganized and
includes works of art from convents, and the Duomo, as
wellas donations by private citizens. Some objects belong
to the Town Council. The museum is divided into several
rooms and has valuable objects such as wooden sculptures
dating from the 14th century: the Annunciation comprising
two statues, one which represents "The Angel"
and the other "The Madonna", of which only the
head and the shoulders still exist and "The Crucifix"
where the figure of Christ is represented handless and
with his feet on a wooden base; the splendid psalm books
and antiphonaries (books that contain verses which precede
psalms) works of Niccolò di Ser Sozzo Tegliacci
and Lippo Vanni dating from the 14th century. "The
Madonna of the Rose" (see picture above), part of
a triptych by Bartolo di Fredi, is exhibited facing the
psalm books. In the Silverware room, extremely finely
worked examples of goldsmith’s art, embossed and
engraved work can be admired. Only the very best craftsmanship
and refined techniques can create suchremarkable works.
They mostly date back to the 17th and 18th century. The
exceptional craftsmanship mentioned is also represented
by notable works in silk and satin with gold and silver
braids.
Etruscan Museum
In the museum there is an exhibition of archeological
findings from digs in the surrounding area and especially
from Ranza and Cellole. The Archeological Youth Group
of San Gimigmanosupported by the Monuments and Fine Arts
Service in Siena and Florence, has restored and catalogued
these findings that are topographically displayed in show-cases.
Besides the objects of a more common use (plates, bowls,
vases, buckles and necklaces) particularly interesting
are the cinerary urns (see picture) in a style similar
to those in Volterra with a stretched out figure of a
deceased person holding a plate containing a small offering
to pay for the journey to the afterlife.
The
Medieval Wash-houses
The Porta delle Fonti opens onto the countryside and leads
to the ancient wash-houses once used for drawing water
and washing linen. The construction, which dates back
to the 14th century, consists of ten Romanesque and ogival
arches. It was built upon the site of a 9th century well
constructed in Lombard stone. The Porta delle Fonti was
part of the second circuit of walls. It was modified in
1930 when the superstructure of the chapel, which had
been built in 1501, was demolished. The fresco by an unknown
Sienese artist dating from the 16th century which depicts
"The Madonna and Child with the Saints Michele and
Giovanni Battista" was moved to the inside of the
"Loggia Nuova" (new loggia) of the People’s
Palace.