The
Municipal territory of Stia extends in the Casentino for
an area of 62,71 square kilometres at the foot of Monte
Falterona, and is crossed by the high course of the Arno.
A Roman settlement on the road which rises from the Arno,
crossing the Apennines to reach San Godenzo, it was a
feudal centre ; from 1872 an autonomous municipality,
united to Pratovecchio in 1929, it reached its present
day aspect in 1934 with the aggregation to it of the districts
of Papiano and Ponte d’Arno, taken from the Pratovecchio
territory, and the zone comprised between the river Arno,
the streams Vicena and Asinaia and the borders of the
province of Firenze.
Recorded in a document of 1054, Stia belonged to the Porciano
branch of the Counts Guidi and was for centuries the “mercatale”
(marketplace) of the aforementioned Castle. Around 1230,
Count Baldino had a sumptuous dwelling constructed, called
il Palagio, on the banks of the Staggia stream, from which
developed a new conglomeration which joined itself to
the village already in existence on the mountain, renamed
then as Stia Vecchia. It was like this that the branch
of the Counts called “di Palagio” was started,
they maintained possession of the land of Stia until the
village was put under siege by the Fiorentina republic
(1402) and Count Antonio who was the last of this branch
was ousted. Under the trust of Firenze the Municipality
of “del Palagio Fiorentino” was constituted,
the result of the union of the Municipality of Montemezzano
with the rural residences of Lonnano, Papiano, Stia Vecchia and the Borgo di Stia. The noted jurist and man of politics
Bernardo Tanucci (1698-1783), Court Minister to Carlo
di Borbone and then valuable adviser, to Ferdinando V,
was born in this area. During the last war the entire
town underwent destruction, raids and reprisals, the most
grave being that of April 1944 in the Vallucciole zone
which provoked more than one hundred victims.
Porciano
Castle
The historical memories about Porciano goes back to the
11th century, the castle is named on a year's 1017 document
as residence of the Count Guido di Teudegrimo, founder
of the branch of the counts Guidi from Porciano, so we
can consider it as one of the first settlements of the
powerful Casentinese family. More than two centuries after,
in the year 1288, was the famous Count Tegrimo that, here
retired after the Campaldino battle, attacked and stole
the unlucky wayfarers and merchants that passed in the
proximity's of the castle. Of his 'noble art' exists testimony
in a 1291 sentence against the Count: he have to pay 10.000
gold florins to the Podesta (medieval term for chief magistrate
or governor) of Florence to have stolen at a merchant
of Ancona. The successor of Tegrimo was the Count Guido
Alberto of Porciano, also condemned by the Florentine
Republic to have plotted in a conspiracy to upset the
same one. In March 20th 1349 the castle passed under the
dominion of Florence, having the last Count of Porciano,
Ludovico, suit the monk's abit abandoning all his terrestrial
richness.
The greatest surviving keep in
the whole Casentino.
As to many other places of this area also on Porciano
exist a lot of memories, even if you don't historically
proved, regarding the great poet Dante Alighieri. The
legend says that in year 1311 Dante was brought for the
first time in Porciano to convince the Counts of the Guidi
family, that opposed for a long time the Florentine Guelphs,
to support the just crowned Emperor Arrigo VII and to
convince him to take openly side with the Ghibelline cause.
From Porciano departed two famous letters written by the
poet. The first one, March 31st 1311, destined to the
Florentine, full of resentment and hate after the exile
to which he was condemned, with the purpose to invite
them to submit to the emperor. The second, the 16th April
of the same year, to the emperor to push him to crush
with the weapons the same Florence. But the Counts Guidi
didn't keep the promises of fidelity done to the Emperor,
and the poet immortalized his contempt for the traitors
in the XIV° chant of the Purgatory of the 'Divine
Comedy'. This caused the revenge of the Guidi family that
imprisoned the Alighieri in one of the halls of Porciano.
Another legend that concerns the castle is related to
the presence between its walls of a treasure, a gold bell
that 'it is worth how much the whole Casentino'.
The western tower.
The mighty Keep of Porciano, still gifted of battlement,
is the greatest of the whole Casentino with its 35 meters
and six plans of height. It is raised between the rests
of the fortified walled enclosure, two towers, the western
transformed in bell tower of the church of the little
town and two gates, one to north and another to south.
The downfall of the castle began in the 16th century in
contemporary with the growth of the town of Stia, placed
at the bottom of the valley, much more comfortable for
the commerce. The ruins of the fortification also knew
the shame to be destined to agricultural use. As the near
castle of Romena, also Porciano became in the 19th century
ownership of the Counts of the Goretti dè Flamini
family that took care of its restoration. On the site
were also done archaeological researches that have allowed
to reconstruct the phases of development of the castle.
It's now possible to see the complex system of canalization
of the waters that were served to flow from the roof of
the keep to the principal cistern sited in the court of
the castle and in a small misure inside the same tower
for drinkable use. After the last works, finished in 1978,
the ruins results well kept and today have been opened
to the public, the tower also entertains an apartment,
residence of the owners, and a small museum of the things
recovered in the area.
Looking today at this castle of small dimensions can seem
impossible that in the Middle Age its importance was so
notable. The 'court' of Porciano was frequented by knights,
noble and ambassadors, the deriving merchants from the
east had to pass under the walls of this castle to approach
towards Florence and an Emperor confided in its alliance
to subdue the powerful Florentine Dominion.